Lake Como to the Grossglockner (291 miles)

Everything looks better in the morning & with the sun glimmering over Lake Coma I can finally see the appeal. It’s a beautiful lake skirted by majestic houses joined by narrow streets hugging the shoreline. Unfortunately, the demands of (our) modern motoring habit mean these narrow streets are now fed by carriageways & tunnels. So chaos ensues. Still a great lake. Sat eating break

fast listening to Americans discussing the merits of buying your clothes in Milano (“you must..”). Meanwhile I’m off to Stelvio pass. A wall of hairpins rising to 9000 ft. All’s well......until en route I overtake the umpteen wagon & suddenly find myself gliding to a halt with no power. No power means no (or little) brakes so glide is the word. Okkkayyy.. Starts right up again but I’m a tad wary. What do you need when are just about to descend the Stelvio - brakes, engine breaking, confidence? After miles of nursing fraulein my confidence grows infintessably. The rest will have to look after itself. Bang, bang, clonk, hail Mary, I’m coming through. Bike is protesting (but not stopping), I’m not trying to think too much (whilst re-finding my back brake). But I am but an earthworm compared to the cyclists making the climb up. Next to the Grossglockner (Austria’s highest peak – 12 & half thou feet). Slow progress through the Dolomites. Endless lines of (mainly) German camper vans & wheel barrow sized tractors pulling trailers of apples. I have lost feeling in too many parts of my body. Getting off the bike in Austria to fill up I get a glimpse of a Gollum like character. Picture this as I arrive at a picturesque Alpine chalet greeted by two girls dressed in traditional, “the hills are alive” gear. Comedy.